The origins of Palma de Mallorca can be traced back to before Roman times, and even today inhabitants of homes in the old quarter are often still discovering Roman remains less than a yard beneath the ground. The city you see today, however, is a still a relatively new creation. The tree lined avenues of the Passeig des Born, were only built in the 19th Century on the site of a dried up riverbed, the original walls that once protected the city from invaders were pulled down to create the Las Avingudas ring road, and the waterfront promenade, or Passeig Maritim, was only reclaimed from the sea during the late 1950’s.
A half-day walk around the old city can start and end at the Plaça d'Espanya. It is a popular gathering point, and is the terminating point for many buses to Valldemossa. We can wander around and amble back towards the port giving us a chance to see most of the sights of Palma. As we stroll away from the palace area back towards Plaça d'Espanya, we might want to take the Passeig des Born, a tree-lined boulevard that many see as the heart of city life and is filled with shops and cafes. The Plaça Mayor has a huge open market, so that might be interesting, too.
The biggie in Palma is the wonderful Gothic cathedral, La Seu. The cathedral is a breathtaking Gothic structure, finished in 1587, that combines vastness and elegance. Viewed from below from the Parc de la Mar, it appears to rise mountain-like from its surroundings. Even the entryways are magnificent, including the Portal del Mirador with its seaward wall of buttresses and elaborate door, and the Portal Major, with its Renaissance design and colorful ceiling. The interior, partly redesigned by the famous Spanish architect Antonio Gaudi, features his controversial main altar. The cathedral houses 20 small chapels around its perimeter, each unique, and several honoring regional religious heroes. Be sure to look up to see the Rose Windows above the main altar.
The Palau de l'Almudaina, across the square from the cathedral, was once the royal Moorish palace, and then a summer palace for the Spanish monarchy. Much of the building's interiors are intact, highlighting unique architecture and art. Some interesting areas include the Hall of the Fireplaces; the terrace, with its clean lines and panoramic view; the Queen's and King's rooms with their tapestries and period furniture; and the Chapel of St. Anne and its Romanesque portal and delicate interior. The museum is large, not often crowded, and allows visitors time to explore and linger.
Both the cathedral, La Seu and the Palau de l'Almudaina are on the harbor, as are the nearby ancient Moorish baths, the Banys Arabs.
Up on the hill we'll see Bellver Castle, built on the ruins of a Muslim site. It contains a museum of archaeological finds and classical sculptures, as well as having an excellent view of the bay. Bellver is one of the most distinct castles in Spain.As in other parts of southern Europe, the siesta is alive and well in Palma. Many shops, churches and museums close in mid-afternoon for several hours, so check before you go. Also, beware of cabbies who insist the only fare they offer is a "city tour." Taxis are legally required to pick up all passengers and drop them off where they request.
If we decide to venture outside of Palma de Mallorca, we might consider heading to Valldemossa, considered by many to be Mallorca's most beautiful town. It is set in the hills, a short 30-minute cab ride from Palma, about 60 euros roundtrip. But I think we should be travellers and not tourists. Let's take the L210 bus to Valldemossa.
The town by itself with its old streets and buildings offer a lot to see for the tourists. The flower decorations, well kept gardens and small street cafes create a charming atmosphere.
We can look for paintings by Bruno Zupan. If you're interested, Mr. Zupan does a nice video here.
The most famous attraction in Valldemossa is Cartuja de Valldemossa. This monastery was the home of Frederic Chopin and his lover George Sand during the winter of 1838-39. It was here that Chopin composed his famous Raindrop Prelude.
In 1838, the pianist Frederic Chopin and his lover, the writer George Sand, rented a former monk's cell at the Royal Carthusian Monastery. The couple and their illicit affair were the subject of intense gossip in Paris, so they decided to take refuge in Valldemossa to escape the 19th century equivalent of today's paparazzi. Chopin suffered from tuberculosis, and they thought the sunny, warm climate would help him recover. Unfortunately, the winter was a disaster for the couple. The weather was wet and cold, and the Mallorcan citizens shunned them. Chopin's health declined, the couple feuded with the villagers and each other, and Sand took out her frustrations with a pen in the scathing novel, A Winter in Majorca.
For more about Chopin and Sand, rent the movie Impromptu starring Hugh Grant and Judy Davis.